you notice that all the cars you see are brand-new, or almost brand-new, and that they are all Japanese-made. There are no American cars in Antiguaâno new ones, at any rate; none that were manufactured in the last ten years. You continue to look at the cars and you say to yourself, Why, they look brand-new, but they have an awful sound, like an old carâa very old, dilapidated car. How to account for that? Well, possibly itâs because they use leaded gasoline in these brand-new cars whose engines were built to use non-leaded gasoline, but you musnât ask the person driving the car if this is so, because he or she has never heard of unleaded gasoline. You look closely at the car; you see that itâs a model of a Japanese car that you might hesitate to buy; itâs a model thatâs very expensive; itâs a model thatâs quite impractical for a person who has to work as hard as you do and who watches every penny you earn so that you can afford this holiday you are on. How do they afford such a car? And do they live in a luxurious house to match such a car? Well, no. You will be surprised, then, to see that most likely the person driving this brand-new car filled with the wrong gas lives in a house that, in comparison, is far beneath the status of the car; and if you were to ask why you would be told that the banks are encouraged by the government to make loans available for cars, but loans for houses not so easily available; and if you ask again why, you will be told that the two main car dealerships in Antigua are owned in part or outright by ministers in government. Oh, but you are on holiday and the sight of these brand-new cars driven by people who may or may not have really passed their driving test (there was once a scandal about driving licences for sale) would not really stir up these thoughts in you. You pass a building sitting in a sea of dust and you think, Itâs some latrines for people just passing by, but when you look again you see the building has written on it PIGOTTâS SCHOOL. You pass the hospital, the Holberton Hospital, and how wrong you are not to think about this, for though you are a tourist on your holiday, what if your heart should miss a few beats? What if a blood vessel in your neck should break? What if one of those people driving those brand-new cars filled with the wrong gas fails to pass safely while going uphill on a curve and you are in the car going in the opposite direction? Will you be comforted to know that the hospital is staffed with doctors that no actual Antiguan trusts; that Antiguans always say about the doctors, âI donât want them near meâ; that Antiguans refer to them not as doctors but as âthe three menâ (there are three of them); that when the Minister of Health himself doesnât feel well he takes the first plane to New York to see a real doctor; that if any one of the ministers in government needs medical care he flies to New York to get it?
Itâs a good thing that you brought your own books with you, for you couldnât just go to the library and borrow some. Antigua used to have a splendid library, but in The Earthquake (everyone talks about it that wayâThe Earthquake; we Antiguans, for I am one, have a great sense of things, and the more meaningful the thing, the more meaningless we make it) the library building was damaged. This was in 1974, and soon after that a sign was placed on the front of the building saying, THIS BUILDING WAS DAMAGED IN THE EARTHQUAKE OF 1974. REPAIRS ARE PENDING. The sign hangs there, and hangs there more than a decade later, with its unfulfilled promise of repair, and you might see this as a sort of quaintness on the part of these islanders, these people descended from slavesâwhat a strange, unusual perception of time they have. REPAIRS ARE PENDING , and here it is many years later, but perhaps in a world that is twelve miles long and nine miles wide (the size of