context, and as he struggled out of the restaurant on an unsteady gait, I realized he wasnât well. I was overcome by a strange combination of emotionsâa kind of awe and amazement, coupled with sadness. This gargantuan genius, this artistic innovator and romantic visionary who had so manipulated and nurtured our style aesthetic, helping to define an entire age in fashion, had returned to civilian lifeâa mere mortal casually dining at the next table with a friend and his dog in tow. I imagined how long he must have suffered for his art. And I couldnât imagine him not suffering now that he was away from it. The following year, in June 2008, Yves Saint Laurent died of brain cancer. When I heard the news, I flashed on what the iconic British designer Vivienne Westwood had told me on the way out of the Pompidou Centre, just after Saint Laurentâs spectacular farewell. âHe was the worldâs greatest lover,â sheâd said. âHe made it easy for women. Heâs probably the greatest designer that ever lived.â
HEART ON SLEEVE
THE FASHION WORLD revolves around image. This notion both attracts and repels me. As much as I revel in fashionâs surreal landscape and high theatrics, I often ache for unbridled truth and honest passion. And thatâs precisely why I adore the effervescent, forever youthful New York designer Betsey Johnsonâone of my personal heroinesâwho, well into her sixties now, continues to grab life by the horns and not let go.
âAnd at the very end, Iâm gonna try doing my cartwheel right into the swimming pool! What dâya think?â It was just before 10:00 a.m. on a sunny August morning in 2002, and Betseyâs blue eyes twinkled as she shared her secret surprise with me. A Raggedy Ann doll come to life, with her copper hair extensions bopping in the breeze, Betsey had opened her charming cottage in the Hamptons to four hundred of her closest friends and family, and for the first time, the media. The occasion was her sixtieth birthday, a day that also marked the twenty-fourth anniversary of her company. Three big busloads of models, dressers, hairstylists, and makeup artists had already made the two-anda-half-hour trek from Betseyâs Manhattan headquarters. Another busload of editors and photographers was scheduled to arrive at noon. By 3:00 p.m., the rest of Betseyâs guests would have made their way tothe sea-blue cedar-shingled house on Grape Arbor, which had been Betseyâs country home for three years. I brought along one of Betseyâs biggest fans, my twelve-year-old, Joey, to join in the festivities.
There was a giant pink tent pitched on the property, and the gardens were a sprawling rainbow of blooms. Hip young women in turquoise tank tops, with the words âMy Blue Heavenâ scrawled in sparkles across their chests, were carrying cases of Pommery POP Champagne to various stations around the grounds. Perfect little flowerbeds sprinkled throughout the emerald lawns sported nursery rhyme signposts: âLittle Bo Peep,â âMary, Mary Quite Contrary,â âLittle Miss Muffet.â The dreamy setting awaited the role-playing models, who, dressed in vintage Betsey-wear, would conjure memories of lost innocence. The Beatlesâ âStrawberry Fieldsâ blasted from the kitchen as Betsey rounded up the girls for rehearsal.
Inside, the two-storey house was a riot of chintz and tchotchkes, each antique-filled room camera-ready for the impending vignettes. From bon-bon-eating beauties and Snow White languishing beside a basket of rosy apples to a princess sleeping atop a tall stack of mattresses piled upon a pea, the theatrical stage was set for an experiential fashion show aimed at charming the little girl in all of us. On the deck off Betseyâs bedroom, a couple of steamy sirens were getting ready to frolic in a hot tub filled with rubber duckies. Upstairs, naughty lovelies clad in skimpy