In Search of the Perfect Loaf: A Home Baker's Odyssey by Samuel Fromartz Page A

rest between each round, making sure to turn the dough over, so that the smooth side is face up and the bowl is covered when completed. By the third round, the dough should be elastic and have a satiny shine. Cover and let rest for 20 minutes.
    Remove the dough from the bowl so that you can clean it out, oiling the bowl lightly. (Alternatively, you can simply move the dough into a lightly oiled plastic container that might fit better in your refrigerator. Make sure the container will allow enough room for the dough to double in size.) Let the dough rest for a half hour, then place it in the refrigerator for 12 to 24 hours.
    Ideally, you want to bake your baguettes in the afternoon of the second day, so that you might have them ready for dinner.
    Second Day
     
    Put the baking stone on the middle rack of the oven. Place a rimmed baking sheet on the oven floor or lower shelf. Preheat the oven to 470˚F (245˚C) for at least 60 minutes. Lightly dust the counter with flour, so that it’s barely present. Too much flour will impede the shaping of the baguettes.
    Remove the dough from the refrigerated bowl or container. It should have at least doubled in size and contain noticeable gas bubbles. Cut the dough in half. Put the remaining half back into the bowl or container and into the refrigerator. Cut the dough into two pieces (weighing about 275 grams each) and gently stretch them into rectangles 5 by 7 inches with the long edge facing you, or along an east–west axis. The dough should be slightly stiff, because it’s cool, but it will get noticeably more relaxed as it warms up.
    Preshape the dough by stretching and gently folding the top (north) edge of the dough to the middle, then folding it again to the bottom (south) edge. Place the seam side down. Do this with the second loaf and then cover with a light towel and let rest for 5 to 10 minutes.
    While the dough is resting, dust the parchment paper with flour. Roll up three kitchen towels tightly. Set aside. (If you have a
couche
, dust it lightly with flour.)
    To shape the baguette, turn the preshaped loaf seam side up. Press and pull on the dough gently, so it’s a thick rectangular shape, with the long edge again going east–west. Fold the top (north) side of the rectangle toward the middle. Then, using the thumb of your left hand to hold the dough in place, use your right hand to fold the dough again nearly all the way to the bottom edge of the dough, so that the north edge meets the south edge. Seal the seam with your thumb or the heel of your hand. You should have a log about 1.5 to 2 inches thick and about 8 to 9 inches long. Repeat with the remaining loaf.
    Very lightly dust the counter. With both hands facing palm down on the loaf, gently roll it back and forth, moving each hand out to the ends of the loaf as you go, stretching it into a 14-inch loaf or just under the size of your baking stone. Don’t worry if it’s uneven. It won’t be perfect the first time. Repeat with the second loaf.
    Place each loaf on the perpared parchment paper about 5 inches apart, with the seam side down. Place one rolled-up towel underneath the paper between the loaves and one under each other edge, supporting their shape. (If using a
couche
, place the loaves
seam side up
.) Cover with a light kitchen towel and let rise for about 20 to 30 minutes. You want the dough to still spring up when you press into it, so be careful not to let the second rise go too long. If your kitchen is very warm (80˚F), the second rise can be complete in 20 minutes.
    Baking
     
    Put 1 / 2 cup water in a measuring cup. (I boil the water to generate a maximum amount of steam, but if you do this be careful!)
    Remove the towels from under the parchment paper and carefully slide the paper with the loaves onto a cutting board or flour-dusted overturned baking sheet. Dust the top of the loaves very lightly with flour. (If you used a
couche
, carefully lift the loaves and turn them over, so the seam is down.