frantically trying to keep up so they can ride Mother and Dadâs wake.
âLong enough to get the rest you needed,â Mother says. âWant to give Dad a break now?â
âI donât need a break,â Dad protests, but since no one is suggesting that Mother doesâsheâs clearly happy in her favorite command postâDad and I wriggle about tillweâve completed the swap. Iâve stroked less than five minutes when he starts snoring.
âYou actually put David and Raul in the same canoe?â I tease Mother.
âTheyâre way too busy trying to match our pace to argue,â she replies lightly. âThree, two, one, swap sides.â
Our paddles do the switch without losing a single stroke. Weâve been doing this together for as long as I can remember, and little is more peaceful, efficient and satisfying in life than paddling a canoe through water with my powerful mother.
âLand ahoy!â comes a shout from Raul.
We squint ahead and, sure enough, the mid-lake islet weâve been waiting for is in sight.
âCheckpoint No. 5,â David says in a tired but pleased voice. âWe get a quick rest here, right? I so need a nap.â
âMe too,â says Raul, making me feel guilty that Iâve had one.
âSure, one hour,â Mother says in a low voice with a finger to her lips, pointing to Dad.
Springing out of the bow, I tie the canoe to shore, then beeline for the food table as Mother manages to step gingerly over Dad without waking him. Near the checkpoint, a row of snoozing bodies fills a tarp on the ground. I glance around and see other racers napping in their tied-up canoes. One team has pulled their canoe to shore and overturned it as a shelter for whoever is sleeping beneath it, his mud-caked shoes sticking out at an angle.
âMaria!â I hear Davidâs and Raulâs surprised voices greet our friend in unison.
â
Uh-oh
,â I joke to Mother, who pretends she hasnât heard as she gets our team passport stamped.
Mother ends up chatting with some female competitors in the food line as David, Raul, Maria and I pile our plates with tostadas, corn cobs, potatoes, apples and a tasty local corn drink weâre told is called
wilkaparu
. We plunk down on the ground for a picnic under the watchful eyes of Mariaâs dad and uncles. David and Raul vie for who can sit closest to Maria.
âThought you guys were way ahead of us!â she exclaims. âHowâd you get behind us?â
Raul explains how we got lost on the mountain, making sure she knows David was responsible.
âHardly lost any time!â David counters, offering Maria his apple, which she refuses politely. âAnd look how we all but hydroplaned down the lake to catch you here. So letâs paddle the rest of the way together, sound good?â
â
Ha
,â she laughs lightly, âas if we could keep up with you.â
âSo, whatâs after the lake?â Raul asks her, even though he knows already.
âA short biking bit through some beautiful valleys, then some trekking through a gnarly set of canyons before we get to Torotoro. Torotoro, by the way, is Quechuan Indian for âland of mud,â because in ancient times, it wassupposedly a big lagoon. Anyway, thatâs where the caving part of this race is. I can hardly wait!â
âWhere did you learn caving, Maria?â Raul asks, leaning in toward her. âIn Cochabamba?â
âNo way. We only moved to Cochabamba last year. I grew up in Torotoro. It has dozens of cavesâmore being discovered every day. Locals keep lots of them secret from visitors.â
âSecret caves! Awesome,â says Raul. âMaybe we could explore them on our day off.â
She giggles, shoots a wary glance toward her uncles and then looks at Raul with sparkling eyes. âWhy not?â
âWhy not? Because itâs our only rest day!â David snaps.