every day the old man . . .â The American grinned. âEvery day he wears this sort of blue-on-blue dressing gown that reaches almost to the ground. He lies there in the sun and after a while he gets up and says, very, very slowly, âI believe I shall make my way down to the sea.ââ The American shook his head, grinning his sincere grin. âThen he comes up, changes under the dressing gown and spends the rest of the morning scraping the tar off his feet.â
âFrom the oil tankers,â Paco said.
âIâm the only one using the pool.â
âI suppose they like the salt water.â
âDo you like it better?â
âOh, I donât swim very much.â
âWorking all day.â The American nodded understandingly, looking away for a moment, then back to Paco. âIs Torremolinos your home?â
âNerja.â
âNerja. I understand itâs beautiful up there. The caves and all.â
âVery beautiful,â Paco said.
âBut you live in Torremolinos now.â
âYes, I have a room here.â
âYou go to school?â
âDo I go now?â
âI mean did you?â
âFor two years in Sevilla.â
âI thought so. You speak very good English. Excellent.â
âI think I learn most of my English in Madrid.â
âWonderful city.â
âI was in a hotel there three years.â
âHow old are you now? If you donât mind my asking.â
âTwenty-four.â
âI see.â
What is there to see? Paco thought. He watched the American put a cigarette to his mouth; a Reyno. Paco slipped his lighter from a side pocket and flicked it lit as he reached across the counter.
âThank you.â
âNada. â
He waited while the American looked across the lobby to the wrought iron clock against the white wall. He checked his watch with the clock.
âAlmost dinnertime.â The Americanâs grin formed again. It came and went, as if actuated by a switch.
âI donât know if Iâll ever get used to eating so late. You always eat this late? I mean does every body?â
âNine, or ten perhaps.â
âThe people in the villages too?â
âPerhaps a little earlier.â
âThey work hard and get hungry, I guess.â
âOr thereâs nothing to do so they eat and go to bed.â
The American took time to grin before looking at his watch. âItâs been nice talking to you, but weâre supposed to meet the Grahamsâthe English couple from London?âin the lounge.â
Paco smiled politely. âEnjoy yourselves.â To tell him the Grahams had not yet returned from Tangiers would only lead to more conversation.
âThank you. I mean, gracias .â
Paco stood motionless with his hands on the edge of the counter waiting for the American to cross the lobby. âHe did see,â Paco said, his tone becoming very serious, âyou donât learn about Spain at the Castellana Hilton and taking one-day trips to Toledo and Escorial and hurrying back to Madrid to eat in the good restaurants.â
âNo,â the manager said. âYou come to Torremolinos.â
âYou learn about a country,â Paco went on, âby living in one place and talking to the people.â
âAh, the people,â the manager said. âOf course.â
âHe feels the Spanish people are very warm and sincere.â
âUnlike the French.â
âHe feels the Spanish people have dignity.â
âBut think too much about death.â
âHe wonders about that.â
âThey must all read the same book.â
âHe feels the Spanish people have remarkable poise.â
âIn the face of appalling poverty.â
âHe would like to live here.â
âWith many servants,â the manager said.
âHe feels the ideal would be to have the temperament of the Spanish and the material