didnât explore Galilee. On the contrary, you just kept hovering around Deir al-Asad and making a circuit of Shaâab, al-Kabri and al-Ghabsiyyeh. You lived among the ruins of villages and would go into the abandoned houses and rummage for food. Youâd pounce on what people had left behind and savor the vintage olive oil. You said oilâs like wine, the longer it matures in its jars the smoother it gets. And then you gave me your views on bread. You made me taste the bread you ate when you were on your own during those long months, kneading the dough and cutting it and frying the little pieces in olive oil. You said youâd gotten used to that kind of bread, and you made it now in the camp whenever you felt nostalgic.
âBut itâs bad for you and raises your cholesterol,â I said tasting its burning flavor.
âWe donât get high cholesterol. Peasants are cholesterol-proof.â
A YEAR OF living without shelter around Deir al-Asad.
A year of solitude and waiting.
You spoke to no one. No one lent you a sympathetic ear. People had other things to worry about, they danced with death every day.
Who remembers that woman?
You told me you prayed that God would bless you with forgetfulness and that you didnât want to remember her, but she kept slipping into your thoughts, like a phantom.
She was alone â a woman alone wandering among the destroyed gravesof al-Kabri. But they werenât graves: The Israeli army didnât leave one stone on top of another in al-Kabri after its occupation.
The woman was picking things up and putting them in a bag on her back. Yunes approached her. At first she looked like an animal walking on all fours. Her long hair covered her face, and she was muttering. Yunes moved toward her carefully, ready to fire his rifle. Then she turned and looked him in the eye.
âMy hands were shaking and I nearly dropped the rifle,â he told his wife. âShe seemed to have thought I was an Israeli soldier, and when I got close to her she slung her bag over her shoulder and started running. I stayed where I was and looked around but saw nothing on the ground. I found dried bones, which I thought belonged to dead animals. I thought to catch up with her to ask her what she was doing, but she bolted as fast as an animal. When Nahilah told me who she was, I went back to the place, gathered the remaining bones and buried them in a deep hole.â
The womanâs story terrified the whole of Galilee.
In those days, Galilee quaked with fear â houses demolished, people lost, villages abandoned and everything in shambles.
In those days, the womanâs voice was like a wind whistling at the windows. People became afraid and called her the Madwoman of al-Kabri; she crept along the ground, leapt from field to field, her bag of bones on her back.
It was said that she gathered the bones of the dead and dug graves for them on the hilltops. When she died, the bones from her bag were scattered in the square at Deir al-Asad, and people came running and gathered them up and made a common grave for them. The Madwoman of al-Kabri was buried next to the bones sheâd been carrying.
Who was that woman?
No one knows, but people learned her story from her bag.
Yunes said he met the madwoman of the bones and spoke to her, and that she wasnât as mad as people said. âShe gave me wild chicory to eat. She was looking for wild chicory, not bones. What happened was that she stayedbehind in al-Kabri after the Jews demolished it to avenge the victims of Kherbet-Jeddin. The woman didnât run away with the others because theyâd left her behind.â
âIn those days we forgot our own children,â said Umm Hassan when I asked her about the Madwoman of al-Kabri.
âIn those days, Son, we left everything. We left the dead unburied and fled.â
I N THOSE DAYS the people lived with fear, military rule, and the death of border crossers. People