Pasta Modern by Francine Segan Page A

who think they don’t like fish love this dish. The tuna transforms in the cooking process into something celestial.
Olive oil
2 ½ pounds (1.2 kg) yellow onions, sliced
1 celery stalk, minced
1 carrot, minced
2 cups (480 ml) dry white wine
1 cup (240 ml) vegetable or fish broth
1 pound (455 g) fresh tuna, cut into bite-sized cubes
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 pound (455 g) candele , cut into bite-sized pieces, or any thick tube pasta
In a large saucepan, heat ¼ cup (60 ml) oil over high heat. Cook the onions, celery, and carrots until they are caramelized, about 20 minutes. Add the wine, reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer for 2 hours, stirring every half hour. Mix in the broth and tuna and cook, covered, for another hour, until the flavors have melded. Season with salt and pepper.
Boil the pasta in salted water until it is al dente. Drain and toss into the sauce, stirring until well combined. Serve hot, but note that it is generally not served topped with cheese or parsley.

PASTA WITH SPICY SNAIL SAUCE
    { Pasta al sugo di lumache }
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    SERVES 4 | REGION: Abruzzo
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The French don’t have a monopoly on escargots! Snails have been enjoyed in Italy since ancient Roman times, especially in southern Italy and Sicily. This recipe for snails in a spicy herb-infused tomato sauce comes from Abruzzo.
Olive oil
2 garlic cloves, minced
24 snails, either fresh or canned
6 fresh medium tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped
Red pepper flakes
1 to 2 small sprigs fresh rosemary
Salt
1 pound (455 g) spaghetti alla chitarra or other long pasta
A few small leaves each of fresh parsley, mint, sage, and marjoram
In a small sauté pan, heat 5 tablespoons olive oil and the garlic until the garlic is light golden. Add the snails, tomatoes, red pepper flakes to taste, and rosemary and simmer over very low heat for 10 minutes.
Meanwhile, boil the pasta in salted water until it is al dente. Drain and toss into the sauce; season to taste with salt. Serve sprinkled with the fresh herbs.



LEMON-AVOCADO SPAGHETTI WITH SHRIMP
    { Spaghetti con avocado e gamberi }
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    SERVES 4 | REGION: Sicily and southern Italy
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Avocados aren’t indigenous to Italy, but as with tomatoes and corn, when these New World ingredients got there, the Italians did magical things with them.
Lemons and red onions, classic southern Italian ingredients, here combine with this creamy newcomer to the Mediterranean for an alluring fusion of textures and aromas. The avocado is used raw, and creates a healthier, more flavorsome “cream” in the sauce. The shrimp add briny tang and the lemon brightens the dish.
1 large red onion, finely sliced
¼ cup (60 ml) dry white wine
8 ounces (225 g) small shrimp, shelled and deveined
Olive oil
Salt
1 pound (455 g) spaghetti or any pasta, preferably Benedetto Cavalieri brand
1 avocado
Zest and juice of 1 lemon
Freshly ground black pepper
In a skillet large enough to hold the pasta, combine the onions and wine over medium heat and simmer until the onions are soft, about 10 minutes. Add the shrimp and raise the heat to high to evaporate any remaining wine; cook until the onions are caramelized and the shrimp are cooked, about 5 minutes. Off the heat, add 1 tablespoon oil and salt to taste.
Boil the pasta in salted water until it is al dente. Drain and toss with the onions.
Meanwhile, peel and pit the avocado and puree it with the lemon juice in a blender or small food processor until very smooth. Stir the mixture into the pasta and add half the lemon zest until well combined; re-season the dish with salt, if needed. Top the pasta with the remaining zest and pepper.

FISH HEADS, FISH HEADS
    { Mezzi rigatoni risottati con sugo scarti }
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    SERVES 4 | REGION: Southern Italy
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This sauce is made from fish heads, an underappreciated part of the fish that infuses the sauce with light, briny flavor. The pasta cooks right in the sauce, like risotto, permeating it with deep taste.
I like this dish so much, and make it so