Summer Loving by Nicola Yeager Page A

under my chin. My back aches. I wobble slightly. God, this is difficult and I’m not even in the bloody water yet. Kirstan watches me and frowns slightly.
    ‘Does that feel natural? Your right knee forward like that? Right foot forward on the board?’
    ‘Yes. Why?’
    ‘No probs. Most people put their left one forward. If doing the right feels more natural, you may be a Goofy foot.’
    ‘A what?’
    ‘Goofy foot. That’s what they call people who lead with their right foot.’
    ‘Why is it called that?’
    ‘Well, there is a story behind that, but I don’t know if it’s true. I’ll tell you later. Right. So you’re feeling well-balanced, now you stand. You keep looking straight ahead, not at your feet, and stick your arms out like you would if you were on a tightrope. This, hopefully, will help you keep your balance. That’s it. You’re surfing. Except you’re on the sand and the board isn’t moving.’
    Some kids walk by and look at me. They start laughing when I start to wobble and almost fall off. We go through all those stages another six or seven times until Kirstan decides that I’ve got them in my head. I’m perspiring inside my wetsuit now and feeling very uncomfortable.
    ‘So how long have you and your boyfriend been together? I don’t think you told me his name.’
    ‘It’s Franklin. About two years.’
    ‘Everything OK?’
    ‘What’s that meant to mean?’
    Stupid. Stupid response. Keep it together.
    ‘Janica’s a very attractive girl. Are you and she…’
    ‘Ha! No. Janica’s not into guys. Beautiful, isn’t she? She’s really funny and a great surfer. We go out on the west coast from time to time. Great Atlantic rollers. Really scary at times, but it’s a real blast out there. I almost got killed, actually, about, um, three weeks ago now. It was really exciting.’
    ‘God almighty. You’ve not changed much, have you?’
    He smiles, but I can tell it’s a fake smile. ‘Right. You’ve got the sequence in your mind. The only problem is, is that when you’re in the water, you’ve got to do all of that in one fast, fluid movement; get on the board, paddle, paddle, paddle, push up, crouch, stand, surf. But don’t worry, we’ll take it step by step. Come on. Let’s go in the sea.’
    He fixes the fin back on the board and we walk into the shallows. It’s so gloriously hot that I wish I could just run in in my swimsuit. The water feels cool on my feet. It’s only when we’re about fifteen feet out and the water is waist high that that awful sensation of the wetsuit filling up with water kicks in.
    ‘Ugh!’
    ‘Yeah. It’s a nice feeling, isn’t it. All that water creeping up your legs. Don’t worry. It’ll be over soon. Right. Let’s wait for a suitable wave and see if you can ride it into the beach. Just hold the board steady and get ready. No pressure to stand up. Just ride it in lying down if you can.’
    We stand in the water and wait. He smiles at me and I smile back. It’s almost like a dream. It’s like something that could have happened eight years ago, but much warmer and sunnier. I hold onto the board. It’s difficult. The water is making it bob up and down.
    ‘You look good, baby.’
    Is that the hint of a choke I heard in his voice just then? I can feel tears in my eyes again. I must be becoming emotionally incontinent.
    ‘Kirstan…’
    ‘OK! Here it comes! Get ready! Get on the board – paddle, paddle, paddle!’
    I turn around and see what looks to me like a colossal wave heading towards me at some considerable speed. I drag myself onto the board, which Kirstan is holding steady and, looking straight ahead as ordered, paddle frantically. The board rocks from side to side and suddenly I feel the wave lift it up. This is it! I’m going to take this all the way into the beach!
    Of course, that’s not what happens. As soon as the wave makes contact, it tips me and the board sideways into the water. I get a few litres of seawater up my nose and in