world in his gaze, linking it by time and by cable—but he was just that, and the effect on him must have been unsettling. London was the imperial capital, the center of the world. For twenty years, while England and the United States had been undergoing their very different political and industrial revolutions, Canada had been isolated, intellectually incubated, lacking dynamism,lacking a culture of its own. Fleming’s avid interest in London, at the age of thirty-six, is more like a schoolboy’s first encounter. He walked fifteen miles his first day, and kept up his journal to his children:
It would be impossible for me to describe here the richness of the architecture of the buildings or all that is seen in passing through the streets of London; it is perfectly bewildering to attempt to notice everything and it would be endless writing to record all that comes before the eyes or the impressions found on the mind, everything is on a magnificent scale, distances, wealth, pomp, poverty and crime are all here developed to a greater extent than perhaps in any other portion of the world … we saw on all sides an ocean of buildings, disappearing in the smoky distance with scarcely anything for the eye to rest upon but chimney tops and church spires, to the east, the Town, and to the west [sic], St Paul’s Cathedral.
And what must it have been like for a boy from the colonies, even a thirty-six-year-old boy, accustomed to the basics of Scotch-Canadian cookery, to be confronted by a High Victorian repast such as was served to him as a guest at the Civil Engineers Annual Dinner, on June 10, 1863? He thought enough of it to save the menu. From six-thirty till eleven-thirty, they ate and apparently ate some more. The menu reads like something from
Tom Jones
, and brings to mind old pictures of salmon catches, buffalo hunts, pigeon-snaring, and big-game safaris. This was London at its imperial height. One can imagine the mirrors and chandeliers, the hordes of waiters, the cigar smoke. They were addressed by Mr. Gladstone, chancellor of the exchequer, then by the Lord Mayor, then the Earl of Caithness, and, as Fleming put it, “a serene Highness of some description from the Continent.”
FIRST SERVICE
Green Peas Soup Ox Tail Soup Mock Turtle Soup
Salmon Whitings Turbots
Broiled Salmon au Sauce Piquant
John Dory à la Hollandaise Red Mullets en Papillote
Côtelettes de Saumon à l’Indienne
Stewed Eels Trout Soles à la Normandie
Whitebait
SECOND SERVICE
Entrées
Friandeau de Veau à l’Oiselle Kari d’Homard au Riz
Côtelettes d’Agneau aux Épinards
Côtelettes Mouton aux Concômbres
Ris de Veuu aux Tomates
Poulet à la Marengo Suprême de Volaille
Forequarters of Lamb Saddles of Mutton
Roast Capons aux Champignons Boiled Pullets à la Finançière
Bacon and Beans
York Hams Côte de Boeuf à la Jardinière Ox Tongues
Roast Chickens Veal Olive Pies Pigeon Pies Boiled Chickens
Asparagus Cauliflowers Salads New Potatoes
THIRD SERVICE
Quails Leverets Guinea Fowls Ducklings Goslings
French Beans Mushrooms Green Peas
Prawns Lobster Salad
Cabinet Puddings St Clair Puddings
Gâteaux Jellies Creams Meringues
Charlottes de Fraises Richmond Maids of Honour
Pastry Tarts
Omelettes aux Confitures Orange Fritters Nesselrode Puddings
Wines and Liqueurs
Sherry Madeira Hock Champagne Sparkling Hock & Moselle
Old Port Château Lafitte
Curaçao Maraschino Eau-de-vie Usquebaugh
Dessert-Coffee
His return voyage, on the
Great Eastern
, brought him to New York (from Liverpool) on July 1, 1863, a date that would mark the birth of Canadian Confederation in four more years. On July 4, the American passengers staged an