I
Now that itâs fashionable to reveal intimate details of married life, I can state publicly that my wife, Alice, has a weird predilection for limiting our family to three meals a day.
âAlice, Letâs Eat
There was one condolence letter that made me laugh. Naturally, a lot of them made me cry. Some of those, oddly enough, were from people who had never met Alice. They had become familiar with her as a character in books and magazine pieces Iâd writtenâlight books and magazine pieces about traveling or eating or family life. Virtually all those letters began in the same way, with a phrase like âEven though I never really knew Aliceâ¦.â I was certain of what Aliceâs response would have been. âTheyâre right about that,â she would have said. âThey never knew me.â
I once wrote that tales about writersâ families tend to have a relation to real life that can be expressed in terms of standard network-television fare, on a spectrum that goes from sitcoms to Lifetime movies, and that mine were sitcoms. Now that I think of it, maybe they were more like the Saturday-morning cartoons. Alice played the role of the momâthe voice of reason, the sensible person who kept everything on an even keel despite the antics of her marginally goofy husband. Years ago, at a conference of English teachers where we were both speakers, the professor who did the introductions said something like âAlice and Bud are like Burns and Allen, except sheâs George and heâs Gracie.â Yes, of course, the role she played in my stories was based on the role she played in our familyâour daughters and I sometimes called her T.M., which stood for The Motherâbut she didnât play it in the broad strokes of a sitcom mom. Also, she was never completely comfortable as the person who takes responsibility for keeping things on an even keel; that person inevitably misses out on some of the fun. (âI feel the need to break out of the role of straight person,â she said in a
Nation
review of
Alice, Letâs Eat
that cautioned readers against abandoning long-planned European vacations in order to scour the country for âthe perfect roast polecat haunch.â) The sitcom presentation sometimes made her sound stern as well as wise, and she was anything but stern. She had something close to a childâs sense of wonderment. She was the only adult I ever knew who might respond to encountering a deer on a forest path by saying, âWowsers!â
Once, during a question-and-answer period that followed a speech I had given at the Herbst Theatre, in San Francisco, someone asked how Alice felt about the way she was portrayed in my books and articles. I said that she thought the portrayal made her sound like what she called âa dietitian in sensible shoes.â Then the same questioner asked if Alice was in the audience, and, when I said she was, he asked if sheâd mind standing up. Alice stood. As usual, she looked smashing. She didnât say anything. She just leaned over and took off one of her shoesâshoes that looked like they cost about the amount of money required in some places to tide a family of four over for a year or twoâand, smiling, waved it in the air. She wasnât a dietitian in sensible shoes, and she would have been right in saying that the people whose exposure to her had been through my stories didnât know her. Still, in the weeks after she died I was touched by their letters. They may not have known her, but they knew how I felt about her. It surprised me that they had managed to divine that from reading stories that were essentially sitcoms. Even after Iâd taken in most episodes of
The Honeymooners,
after all, it had never occurred to me to ponder the feelings Ralph Kramden must have had for Alice Kramden. Yet I got a lot of letters like the one from a young woman in New York who wrote that she sometimes