Good Cook by Simon Hopkinson

excellent), finely chopped
    pinch of dried chilli flakes
    1 large tomato, peeled and chopped to a mush
    9 oz carnaroli (or other) rice
    1 tsp saffron threads
    2 small spring onions, trimmed and finely chopped
    1 tbsp chopped parsley
    4 tbsp butter
    I was unsure whether to refer to this as a pilaf, a kind of baked risotto sort of thing, or almost a faux Spanish paella. Prosaically, I finally decided upon the simple description of “rice with mussels and saffron,” for that is exactly what it is. And a very moreish result, be assured.
    I use the Italian risotto rice, carnaroli. More than anything else, this particular rice is one of the easier ones to cook. In Venice, most cooks would probably use vialone nano, a smaller, tighter grain and, in fact, the most regularly employed when making seafood risotto in that city. Feel free to use it if you like. There is also absolutely no reason at all why one shouldn’t use basmati rice (Tilda, for preference, as it always remains as nicely separate grains and rarely overcooks), turning this dish into a true seafood pilaf. Finally, the Spanish rice calasparra, the one for making paella, could further be an option. The choice is yours.
    Preheat the oven to 375°F.
    First, check for any open mussels that refuse to close up again when briskly tapped; if they refuse to shut, discard them. Put the mussels into a large pot, pour over thesherry, bring up to a boil, then clamp on a lid and allow the mussels to cook for about a minute. Lift off the lid and shake the mussels about so that those underneath end up on top. Cook once more, lidded, for about the same time. Turn off the heat and check that the mussels have popped open; if not, cook for a touch longer. Drain through a colander suspended over another pan, shake them a little to dispel any liquid caught in the shells, and leave to drain for few minutes.
    Shell the mussels (ditch any that stubbornly will not open), put the meat into a bowl and throw out the shells. Pour the mussel juice through a very fine sieve (to collect any grit or bits of shell) into a measuring jug. Top up with water to give a final measurement of 14 oz. Using a solid, lidded pot, heat the olive oil and in it quietly fry the garlic, curry powder, peppers, chilli and tomato, until any liquid (from the tomato) has been driven off, and the mixture is almost a purée. Now add the rice and stir it around briskly, making sure that it is well coated and glistened by the oily mixture; add a touch more oil if you like. Pour in the liquid from the jug, add the saffron and bring the mixture to a simmer. Tip in the shelled mussels and stir well. Put on a lid and slide the pot into the oven. Cook for 20 minutes.
    Remove the pot and leave to stand for 5 minutes without removing the lid. Take it off now, deftly stir in the spring onions, parsley and butter, place a dish towel over the pot and clamp on the lid once more. Leave for a further 5 minutes, so allowing any excess steam to be absorbed and, also, to give a final swell to the rice; the final texture should be somewhere between a pilaf and a risotto. Serve directly from the pot, spooned on to hot plates. I see this gorgeous plate of food as a meal in itself, with no other accompaniment necessary.

buttered rice with mozzarella, garlic & basil
    serves 2, generously
    9 oz carnaroli (or other) rice
    salt
    5½ oz buffalo mozzarella, cut into small chunks
    3¾ oz freshly grated Parmesan, plus 2–3 tbsp extra
    1 very small clove of garlic, crushed and finely chopped
    bunch of basil, leaves only, roughly torn
    4 tbsp softened, unsalted butter
    freshly ground black pepper
    This dish of rice emerges as a kind of boiled and sticky, nicely bland mock risotto. But, of course, it is no such thing; the process itself is against it from the start. Although the description “boiled and sticky” may not exactly thrill the expectant taste buds, the assembly is a happy one—and it is very easy to prepare, too. Just think cooked rice and